west wales coastal escape

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Late on a grey afternoon, we ducked into a tiny harbourside café in Porthgain—still smelling of the morning's catch. The tide was out, revealing a necklace of rock pools and kelp. Far off, the Strumble Head lighthouse winked its first, steady blink. This stretch of Pembrokeshire coast isn't about grand landmarks; it's the low sun turning the wet sand to pewter, the single curlew calling across the salt marsh, the quiet slide of an hour from one day to the next. No rush. No rain. Just the long,…